At about 5:20 am, Iceland time, the lights came on in the plane. My husband K uses a sleep mask. So, I had to wake him up. They'd really been rather kind about how late they let us go, because we were soon told we were descending.
We looked out K's window and, even in the dark, we could see some of the island below us. We could tell there was snow, but that there were also areas without snow. Unfortunately, we could not see the Northern Lights. We could see the lights of the various towns and Reykjavik.
We landed at 5:56 and were at Gate D32 in just four minutes. All of the planes outside the window were Icelandair. I suppose that that isn't surprising.
Since we were in the front of the plane, we were inside the terminal at 6:04. We followed the path to the passport control, which was a six minute walk. At one point the whole group of passengers reached a point where we weren't sure where to go and there was no one to ask. So, a passenger just moved a rope and we all went on. We passed a sign celebrating Iceland's 100 years of sovereignty, which was a new fact for me.
Passport control was really easy. We were through in just one minute.
Then, we had to find our way to the gate for the flight to Munich. The terminal was decorated for Christmas and was quite festive. We took advantage of the bench for a photo op.
You don't really wait at the gate the way you do here in the States. The gate was actually a closed door, with a rope line outside it. We found seats at a window around the corner from A14 around 6;20. Our older daughter J arrived from her flight from Dulles International in Washington, D.C. at 6:40. It was really good to see her. I'd last seen her at the end of a trip she and I took in July, but her dad hadn't seen her since the year began.
At 6:48, we joined the other people, who seemed to know what they were doing, and got in line. After we had our tickets checked, we went through the doorway and straight onto the jetway. We found ourselves standing out there for several minutes with the rest of the passengers. The glass did not make the ramp warm, and I was glad I had my new coat on.
At 7:08, we were seated in seats 2 D and F (there is no E), with our daughter behind us in 3D on flight FI 532 to Munich. K and I had no entertainment in front of us, because we were behind the bulkhead. The flight attendant came over to pull our screens out of the armrests, so that we could see the wonderful commercials for Iceland (again) and see the pre-flight info. She also brought us a tasty glass of cherry juice.
This plane was configured in a 2-2 setup in first class, which was in front of the door used for boarding. The attendant welcomed everyone onboard the plane named Krafla for a volcano in Iceland. It made me sorry that I'd missed the name of the previous plane.
When the plane was pushed back at 7:26, I saw just a single pile of snow. We took off at 7:38, which was about 18 minutes late.
We were served food inside of 20 minutes. At first, we were asked what we wanted, but after bringing us trays, she realized that we'd ordered, when we booked. So, new trays. K had gone for an Icelandic meal that had salmon and shrimp, but I'd chosen chicken, in spite of the early hour. We had not been able to choose breakfast. The chicken turned out to be rather spice, but I did enjoy the jar of yogurt.
I was happy to discover 2Cellos'
Let There Be Cello on the entertainment list. K and I had gotten to go to a concert of theirs in Orlando in the spring and really enjoyed it.
Out K's window, I got to see some nice colors in the sunrise.
I have to say that the first class lavatories on this plane were the best smelling lavatories I've ever been in.
I managed to sleep some and when I awoke, we were flying over France. It wasn't long until we were over southern Germany, which was very, very green, unfortunately. If you look very, very hard, in the back of the second photo, you can make out the Alps.
We landed at 12:25 Munich time. The plane was not taken to a gate, rather it parked out in a line of planes away from the terminal. Much to my dismay, we had to walk down stairs to disembark. My knees never like that after sitting for so long. We boarded a tram/bus at 12:44 and as we drove to the terminal, we could see that they are doing a lot of construction in that area. It was a six minute ride.
Going through immigration is no big deal in Germany and we were soon looking for our main luggage, which we found at 1:05.
It was a very long walk down what seemed to be the entire length of the terminal to get to the train station. Along the way, we saw things like a little beer garden, the awesome waterfall in the photo, and an interesting lighting effect along the moveable walkway, which, unfortunately, did not run for the entire route that we had to take.
Our daughter J had found a deal on a 4-day ticket on Deutsche Bahn this fall that ran until December 14, but was good for travel after that. Her father and I had actually scored a better rate than she did on it by buying our tickets together. Anyway, if we used the ticket today, then we'd have to get a ticket on the day that we headed back to the airport. We didn't want to add to the stress of that day by using the ticket today. So, our plan was to buy a ticket into the city here at the airport for today's trip.
We went down the escalator to the train ticket area and found automatic machines. I'm not willing to trust my German, when I've had so little sleep, so J went first and chose English. We knew what train station we needed to reach our hotel, which was very helpful. She paid for hers with cash. I went to buy ours with a credit card and it kept demanding a pin, even though none is necessary for my Capital One MasterCard. Finally, I gave up and fed it cash. I had not wanted to spend 23 Euros this way, because I knew I needed it for the markets.
At 1:35, we boarded the shockingly late S1 to the city. I'd heard that the Deutsche Bahn had been getting grief for the late trains in recent months. German trains are supposed to be on time.
The scenery into town was not exciting, but I'd never ridden this train before, so I didn't mind. Shortly before our station, we saw a building that brought us up short. Who knew that they had offices here?!
At 2:22, we got off at the Donnersbergerbrücke, which really is just past -or before, depending on which way you are going- the bridge. We could see our hotel across the tracks from the platform. It's the short white building. We found a handy elevator up to the bridge level.
We passed a convenience shop and a bakery on our way out of the building to the bridge. Crossing the bridge, we could look back at the station and look down the tracks to the twin domes of the Frauenkirche. These photos show why I love the zoom on my camera.
Once we were across the bridge, we were right next to the hotel. Did it have an entrance here? No, of course not. J had bought a personal WiFi hotspot for this trip, that she planned to share with us. She looked on Google maps and saw that we could reach the hotel front, if we continued down the street and around the block. Or, we could go down the short stairs and then the tall stairs next to us. That's what we chose. She and her father handled the big luggage. I took care of me and my hand luggage. We passed an office building and then rounded the corner in front of the cylindrical building. This brought us to the shared courtyard for the Hampton Inn (Hampton by Hilton Munich City West) and the Hilton Garden Inn (also Munich City West). (We'd had quite the discussion at home about which of these to choose. The Hampton offers an included breakfast. We'd thought about getting breakfast on our own, but decided it would suck up time and we liked Hampton breakfasts. So, Hampton it was.)
K had made both reservations, so he dealt with the desk, when we walked in at 2:31. We were assigned room 524 and J was in 526, which was next door. The room had a clean modern look. The bathroom was just inside the door and the door to it was the door to the closet when it was opened. There was the European shower head that I can never get situated correctly. There was a pull-out sofa beyond the bed. The flat screen television was across from the bed and a desk was next to it. The one thing that was missing was washcloths. This really surprised me, because at the Hiltons in Scotland in June, there had been washcloths. We would have to look for them, when we went out.
We gave ourselves some time to relax before we headed out again at 4. J gave us the code to link to her WiFi. This way, if we got separated, but were in the same vicinity, we could reach each other free of charge. And, of course, we could play with our phones in the hotel without depending on the hotel WiFi. The sun was setting as we left.
At the train station again at 4:11, we figured out the automats and I paid 2,80 Euros each for S-bahn tickets. J had asked at the desk and the train was really the best for getting to downtown, rather than walking farther to the U-Bahn. The train came at 4:15 and at 4:22, we got out at the underground Marienplatz station.
It helps to know Munich, because when we went up to the next level, I knew which way we wanted to head by reading the signs. Soon, we saw the signs for the escalator that led up into Kaufhof, a department store right on the corner of Marienplatz. It is part of a chain, and, while not cheap, I've gotten some things at very good prices here. We realized that this would be the perfect place to look for washcloths. Housewares were on the fourth floor, which is really the fifth, since the ground floor doesn't count. As we rode up the various escalators, we saw that they were having their own Christmas market on that floor, according to signs.
There were so many people on that floor! Years ago, K and I had replaced a broken Rhine wine glass with one we found here. Now, for the first time, I looked at linens. They had some expensive brands from home, but then I recognized washcloth mitts that I had bought in a Kaufhof in Oostende, Belgium last year. They were basically two washcloths sewn together on three sides. I'd bought them as gifts for the girls. Now, I picked out a red one and a pink one for me, figuring that would suit my needs for the trip. J got herself one, too. I found some nice Christmas placemats for my daughter and daughter-in-law, as well as a goofy reindeer that I couldn't resist. We checked out the Weihnachtsmarkt, but decided that we could wait until we visited the three we were going to tonight.
The wait in the checkout line was very long, but the machine had no trouble with my credit card, which was good. As we descended towards the ground floor, I asked to stop off in toys. I always like to see if there is something I can use for a dollhouse or if they have a Barbie that I don't have. Nothing tonight. When we got downstairs, K noticed the Swarovski display and just had to stop. They had some nice crystal figures. We also noticed the Pandora display and while looking at it, a woman recognizing that we were from America, too, told us of the special German ones that Pandora had made. She showed us on her phone one with the German flag colors and said that according to her phone, there was a Pandora store nearby. J did a search and found that we would be walking by it. I knew that would be a stop we would make.
As we finally headed out to the Marienplatz at 5, we were amazed by the display in the doorway. Not only was it the biggest mixer we'd ever seen, but it was a good ol' KitchenAid, which is made in Ohio. It was even the color I'd always wanted.
Seeing Marienplatz all lit up and covered with market stalls was like magic. I've always said, that when I set foot in Munich, I feel like I am home. I've been here so many times, but I also chalk it up to my great-grandfather having been an altar boy here. In any case, I just love Marienplatz and we had to do a selfie with the Rathaus behind us.
K wanted to use a restroom and a google search showed there was one down the U-Bahn steps. While he went there, J and I took a peak at the nearby stalls. Such wonders! But, no shopping now, we'd be back. Munich has 20 Christmas markets and we picked the three we could easily walk to.
When K returned, we headed up Weinstraße, passing booths of food on our way to the Theatinerstraße, which it turned into. We also saw wonderful street decorations.
The Pandora store was a small shop on the right not long after the street changed names. In the window, they advertised a deal for a free bracelet. They did not have the German flag, but they did have a set of three charms that my husband thought would be a good gift from him. However, since the set was already a special price, the bracelet wouldn't be free. The saleswoman was clever and knew a way around this. She charged the beads at their normal individual price and I also got a jar of cleaner. Free bracelet! I left the store with the pink Pandora bag and we continued on.
So many times, I've been on tour buses coming the other way down this street to see the Theatinerkirche. I'd never really realized how close it was to Marienplatz. Just outside the church was something I never expected to run into- a Christmas tree lot. What serendipity! They did not have many trees left, which stands to reason, since it was 5:33 just 6 days before Christmas.
Pretty much across the street, was the entrance to our first Weihnachtsmarkt of the night, Das Weihnachtsdorf im Kaiserhof der Residenz, which is the Christmas Village in the Kaiserhof (Emperor's Courtyard) in the Residenz (name of the palace).
Oh, my goodness, what a crowd inside! The courtyard probably seems pretty large, when you tour the Residenz, but not tonight with the crowd and all the booths. The giant pyramid, with its fan blade top immediately caught my attention. It is believed that the pyramid design dates back to the 16th century and was inspired by the shape of a Christmas tree or that it was the predecessor to the tree. The pyramid is really a tiered carousel. I own two that are each one level, because anything more than that and they get very expensive. This one sat atop a food booth.
Speaking of food booths, there were many. You don't expect to see a booth with a strawberry in December, and yet, there it was. The potato booth seemed totally reasonable.
Each booth or stall glowed warmly, beckoning you to have a look. This was the first time I've been in this courtyard- I've only seen the outside of the building, never the inside. At first, I was impressed by all the column work on the walls. But then I realized that it is actually trompe l'oeil! It's all painted on, not real at all. Amazing!
I would have started really looking at the booths, but wiser heads prevailed and we went for food and drink. J and I went to the bratwurst stand and K went to the long Glühwein stand. I got K and myself two Münchner Bratwurst for 4 Euros each and added a generous dose of mustard from the dispenser hanging there. Even though I ordered in German, the guy still pointed out the ketchup, which is nuts. J also got the bratwurst. K came back with 2 steaming mugs of Glühwein Heidelbeere for 4 Euros each and one of Heißer Apfelsaft (hot apple juice/cider) for J for 2,50 Euros. I'm usually not overly fond of Glühwein at home, because it uses red wine. But, Heidelbeere is a kind of blueberry and it was delicious. We enjoyed the meal at a small table and had the first mugs for our collections.
Fortified, we started to look at the booths. Both J and I were taken by the wooden items at a booth from a group from the Südtirol in Northern Italy. J picked out a bunch of flat ornaments for friends. I wound up with a Nativity inside a section of log that made it look like a cave (11 Euros), a München Weihnachtsmarkt ornament (3,50 Euros), a flat tree that I would put together (2,20), and a wooden bell with a Nativity scene in it (1,60 Euros). Thinking about the several small Nativities I have at home, it seems that I now collect them.
We followed the perimeter of the market from the right, going counterclockwise. Soon, we reached the Märchenwald (Fairy Tale Forest). There were scenes from some fairy tales with figures that moved and speaker airing the story. There was also a group of angels that looked a lot like some rather small German ones I had at home. One booth had a variety of Santas and another had a rather frightening rat/mouse family Christmas. I think, you'll recognize Hänsel und Gretel and Rotkäppchen (Little Red Riding Hood).
This being Germany, the path led one way and dumped you out at the other end. Here we saw more food booths, including our first one with the Lebkuchenherzen (gingerbread hearts) that are a staple of this and Oktoberfest.
We made our way back out of the courtyard around 6:30, but it felt later, because it was so dark out and sunset had been quite a while ago. We continued north toward Odeonsplatz and then turned left onto Briennerstraße. The route was so pretty with Christmas lights!
In less than five minutes, we had reached the Wittelsbacherplatz, site of the Mittelaltermarkt München (the Munich Middle Ages Market). We had chosen this market because of its unique theme. Here, we expected to not hear the American Christmas music we'd heard playing at the last market.
This one was crowded, too. However, we could see the statue of Maximilian I, Elector of Bavaria towering over everyone from its spot in the center of the square. It was an interesting juxtaposition with the modern lights on the building on the far side of the square.
In front of Maximilian was the drink stand. There was such a scrum there, that J and I didn't even try to get near it. K gallantly braved the line, and , after shelling out 17 Euros, came back with a Glühwein and a hot blood orange punch, each in a clay mug, befitting this market. I must say, that I liked J's punch better than the red wine in ours. The price was high due to the deposit on the mugs, but I saw it as just the cost of a great souvenir.
The items for sale here were different, of course. There was sealing wax, handmade leather goods, wonderful stone ocarinas and much more.
We didn't get to experience any performances as we made our way around counterclockwise again. The booths were darker and offered more unusual foods. The first one here had wild goulash (probably with wild game) and cheese Spätzle. The second was serving fish smoked in the barrel oven. The third had Fire-tongs Punch, which has its own Wikipedia entry.
When we reached the restroom, I decided it was worth 0,50 Euro to me. It was nothing like our porta potties. It was a portable room with stalls and sinks. The attendant kept it clean.
When we came out of the square on the far side at 7:11, we came upon a stand selling Lebkuchen, which is the German gingerbread. J decided to buy one covered in chocolate for the three of us to split. Delicious!
Not wanting to backtrack, we decided to cross the street and take Amiraplatz, which turned into Salvatorplatz, changing names as German streets are wont to do. There were beautiful street lights along the way and we soon had a stunning view of the Frauenkirche's twin domes. As we passed the Literaturhaus München, I had to snap a photo of the sign, even though the Orlando here was a book by Virginia Woolf, not the city in Florida.
The street changed names again, this time to Kardinal-Faulhaber-Straße. Soon, we saw the beautiful lights on poles at the Promenadeplatz. We couldn't see the Michael Jackson Denkmal (memorial), but there was an aluminum sculpture of Maximilian Joseph Graf von Monteglas (1759-1838), which seemed rather modern for a guy who lived so long ago. We also saw the Christmas lights on the Hotel Bayerischer Hof, which really added to the facade.
The street was ending, so we turned left into Maffeistraße. We passed a street musician playing a cello, which you don't see every day of the week. The street wasn't getting a lot of foot traffic, so it seemed an odd place to be playing. When we reached Theatinerstraße again, we turned right and headed down to the market on the Marienplatz, arriving before 7:40.
This market was huge, stretching down the pedestrian zone on Kaufingerstraße and some side streets. We decided to start on the Marienplatz portion and see how far we got.
As we walked by a drink booth, I noticed a long list in German of drinks, but what caught my eye was hot chocolate with Amaretto. It didn't hurt that they had cool boots for mugs. J didn't want anything, but I went up and paid 9 Euros for Amaretto Schokolade. It was delicious. I'll have to try that at home. J kindly held the mug for a photo.
We soon found another booth with flat wooden Christmas ornaments and J got more. I got a wooden Nikolaus for 12 Euros. K wanted a snack, so he got Mandeln (almonds) for 5 Euros from a stand with all kinds of nuts. We worked our way to the far side of the square and I got these lovely shots of the tree with the Neues Rathaus and another of the Mariensäule (Mary column), which dates back to 1638 and is why the square is named Marienplatz. You can even see the Frauenkirche.
At one booth, I saw something that I had seen nowhere else tonight- ornaments made from wax. The elderly man behind the counter was talking to a couple, while I patiently waited to purchase one and postcard of the market for 5,50 Euros. There was a woman standing by the booth, who assumed I knew German and began telling me about the man. He was a carpenter and he made the molds for these ornaments himself. He then poured them and added the highlighting color. It was good information to know and I was almost glad the guy kept jabbering to the couple. The woman told me to just cut in and I finally did. The old man did not apologize for the wait, just told me the total and took my money. And we moved on.
The restroom here was 10 cents more than the previous one, but I wasn't surprised.
We went to other booths, some just to look, others to buy. I got three wooden stars for just 1,50 Euro each. I got very excited, when I saw the booth with dollhouse miniatures. It took a bit to decide what I wanted, and I went away 26,50 Euros lighter.
It was 8:47, when I took this photo down the Kaufingerstraße. We knew we wouldn't really be able to do much before the market closed at 9. By the way, "Maroni" on that one stand means "chestnuts", as in roasted chestnuts.
We did walk along the front of Kaufhof, taking in the delightful Steiff displays. At Kaufingertor Passage München, we snapped a photo of the lights and turned back to go to the U-Bahn.
K didn't want me to have to deal with stairs, so we went down in the elevator near Kaufhof. We caught the train at 9:02. It seriously took only 3 minutes to reach the Donnersbergerbrücke station. When we got off, we were treated to a fun sight on the cylindrical building by the hotel.
When we came up under the building on our way to the hotel, I got this shot. The lights seem to be built into the building. However they did it, it took planning.
We were in the room by 9:16. I washed out our mugs and put them on the desk to dry. 4 tonight- a good haul!
My phone said that I had walked 3.4 miles in 9,370 steps. That's even more impressive, when you consider how little sleep I was operating on. What a great start to this trip!!
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