Since traveling to Rothenburg ob der Tauber was the most complicated and the connections were fewer on the weekend, we had decided before the trip, that this excursion had to take place on Friday.
We had made no attempt to change our body clocks before the trip, since it was so short. You'd think that being on the go so much yesterday would have helped my husband K sleep later, but you'd be wrong. He was up at 6. I managed to sleep until 7:43. At 8:40, our daughter J appeared at the door and we all went down to breakfast.
It was a wonderful assortment of foods, including my preferred German breakfast of cold cuts, cheese and a roll, which turned out to be a terrific pretzel roll. Since we didn't know when we'd be eating again, I also got some scrambled eggs, sausage, cheesecake like my grandmother used to get at the bakery, and a banana.(That bakery was either Wolfler's or Hoehn's. The latter was owned by my distant cousins, I think.) or J discovered hot chocolate and got me a delicious mug full. Terrific meal!
We noticed that plenty of other folks at breakfast were not Americans and some were even German. Not quite sure what brought them to the Hampton Inn.
After breakfast, we went back upstairs to brush teeth and gather things for the day- umbrellas, the thistle backpack from Scotland, water, and reading material for the train. J came back and we headed out at 9:40, all bundled up for the chilly temps.
We were on the S-Bahn at 9:48 and getting out at the Hauptbahnhof station at 9:51. We had some time before our planned train, so J and I each spent a Euro to use the WC. Then, we road up the escalator to the tracks.
All of the tracks dead end here, so there were shops and kiosks all along the end of them. We decided to double check that our tickets didn't need any validation. So, we got in the line for the information kiosk. The guy there assured me that we were good to go.
Our tickets did not allow us to travel during the rush hour, which is why we had not rushed out today. At home, J had studied train schedules to find the best times for us and to be sure that we could get back to Munich each night.
At 10:15, we boarded the ICE to Nürnberg. I don't know what made me do it, but I looked above empty seats and saw little LED signs on each. Recognizing "Reservierung", I made sure that we chose ones that were not reserved. K put our coats up on the rack above and we settled in. The train departed at 10:21 and we looked out the window or read. I had brought a
Smithsonian to read, but the motion of the train soon had me dozing off.
The train arrived at 11:30 and we got off and headed for track 15 for the train to Ansbach. The train-IC2068- arrived late at 11:52. It was a double-decker and we went upstairs to sit. It departed at noon.
We were stuck outside the Ansbach station for a bit and we knew we'd never make our planned connection. We finally pulled into the station at 12:34.
We crossed over the tracks a to go inside the station. I found some craft and needlework magazines, which I bought for 8,95 Euros, before we went back out to our track.
We got onto the very crowded train to Steinach, which departed at 1:11. This was a short trip, just 21 minutes. Here, we had to rush to the train for Rothenburg ob der Tauber, which was part of the MittelFrankenBahn. This train ran only between these two towns, back and forth. Amazing! Just four minutes after our arrival, we were on our way at 1:36.
The trip lasted all of 14 minutes. We noticed that a couple on this train had been on the other trains with us since Nürnberg. We figured that most folks on here were coming to the market.
However, when we paused in the station to get our bearings, they came up to us and said that they had seen us on the trains and thought we must be coming here on purpose. They, on the other hand, realized that they were in the wrong town. They wanted to know about the town. Well, I've been here so many times that I've lost count. So, I proceeded to tell them of the wonders of Rothenburg. They were intrigued and decided they'd go explore.
We consulted our map to be sure we were headed in the correct direction, as I've never come by train before. We were outside of the walls on the eastern side of town. The new car park and visitors center was down at the southeast corner of town. That area I knew well.
Not long after crossing the street to Ansbacherstraße, we saw our first decorations.
Outside of the Rödertor, we paused for photos. A woman and her adult son heard us talking and decided to take advantage of other Americans to get their photo taken. They took ours as well. They were doing a lot of hiking on their trip.
I was surprised to see that one of the trees outside the wall still had apples on it. We took our photos and then used the pedestrian path through the gate (Tor) to the Röderturm (tower), which we went through, too.
Inside the wall, we turned around to take photos of the stairs up to the walkway that ran around the entire wall (closed for the season) and took time to read signs.
We were now on the Rödergasse and immediately saw the charming small trees on the buildings. Obviously, they decorate to go along with the medieval feel of their town. It was charming.
I was not expecting shops, but should have. We started window shopping- and then really shopping. We went in an embroidered linens shop and bought napkins and a linen to put in the basket that would hold our Christmas rolls. In one shop window, I recognized some miniature wooden rooms and K and I went in to check it out, while J played her Harry Potter game outside. They had the rooms for much less than I'd seen elsewhere. They also had the wooden musician angels that we hang on our tree. The lady went through all that she had of those, while I consulted the list I'd put on my phone. We had all of them, but I did get a charming room.
Then, there was a fabric shop! J went in with me and did not succeed in talking me out of Christmas panels for pillows for her sister, herself, and me. I also couldn't resist two placemats with colorful triangles on them. She had the tax refund sign in her window and I spent enough money to get some of the tax back.
Then, we saw another shop, which had needlework kits. So, another tax form was filled out here, before we headed down the street again. The Markusturm was ahead of us and interesting buildings on either side. Just charming.
There were more old-style buildings on the other side of the tower, of course. The bar sticking out of the building on the left would have held a winch back in the day to raise goods to the upper floor.
Soon, we were at the Marktplatz in front of the Rathaus (town hall). In spite of the dreariness of the day, the scene in front of us was festive, with a giant Christmas tree in the middle of the marketplace. I should have taken photos of how they had it just sort of stuck into the ground where they'd removed a paving stone or two.
As you can see from the clock, it was now 2:55 and it had been a very long time since breakfast. We rather liked the idea that the Evangelical Lutherans in town were using a booth to raise funds for famine relief in Tanzania. So, we each got a frankische (Franconian, this area of Bavaria) Bratwurst for 3 Euros. We thoroughly enjoyed them while them, while watching the 17th century Ratstrinkstube Clock Tower at 3 reenact the Meistertrunk from 1631. That year, during the Thirty Years War, which pitted Protestants against Catholics, the town was seized by the imperial army led by Count Tilly, a Catholic. The town was going to be plundered and destroyed and the citizens executed. When they begged for mercy and tried to bribe him, he ignored them. So, they gave him a 3.25 liter (.85 gallon) tankard of their best wine, which he enjoyed. He decided to toy with them and offered to free the town, if someone could polish off the tankard in one drink (Meistertrunk). If the person failed, they'd be executed. Finally, the mayor, Bürgermeister Nusch, accepted the challenge. This is what is reenacted by the figures behind the windows on either side of the clock. His success saved the town. For over 130 years, they've even had a festival and a play celebrating the feat.
A nearby stand had Glühwein made with white wine, which I had to try. The 5,50 Euro charge included a deposit on the mug, but I was not returning that mug. K and J didn't want anything, but stood with me at a small, tall wooden table as I drank. It began to rain and we sought cover under the colonnade in front of the Rathaus. Two boys played with a soccer ball, while we were there.
We headed down the small street called Grünermarkt and found more of the market behind the shops that included Anneliese Friese's. We continued through that small plaza to the Jakobskirche, which loomed behind it. In the courtyard behind the church, we found a bit more of the market, including a couple of small rides for children.
K and I decided to take advantage of the restroom that we came upon and paid our 0,50 Euros each. As in Munich, this was an entire portable building with running water. If only we did this at festivals at home!
Back out to browse, I found another booth of wooden items from the South Tirol. My bill for my treasures came to 58,50 Euros, but the guy only charged me 50, which was incredibly kind of him.
This being Rothenburg, of course there was a stand with Schneebälle. In addition to the traditional powdered sugar ones, we saw that they had the delicious dark chocolate ones, which we found out were called "Tauberkugel". Tauber is the river here and "Kugel" means ball. We shared one, which was delicious.
When we finished eating it, we looked at more booths. This one truly surprised me. I was expecting more in the way of finished goods; we had, after all, seen booths with plastic toys. But, here was one overflowing with yarn. They even had crocheting hooks.
We went in Anneliese Friese's shop, but most of it was roped off and we saw nothing we wanted.
Even though it was only 4:14, it was getting dark, when we made our way over to the other side of the Rathaus to go to the one place I go on every trip to Rothenburg, Käthe Wohlfahrt. I get emails from them at home, because they have a mail order business. It is an incredible Christmas store that has all kinds of nooks and crannies. There is a giant Christmas tree in the middle of the room with wooden ornaments. Blown glass ornaments have there own room down some stairs. They have Christmas linens, paper goods, etc. They also carry some Reuter Porzellan miniatures, as well as some miniature matchbox scenes. On the last few trips, I've said I was going in just to look, that I didn't need anything. And yet, I always bought something. This time was no different. They had not one, but four of my little angel musicians that I didn't have. I also found some miniatures and a matchbox or two. I found a crystal ornament to give to my former department chair, whose tree is all crystal ornaments. We left a half hour later with those wonders and another tax form.
The last time my husband and I had been here, there had been a flea market in a large space under the Rathaus. We decided to see what was there this time. We found some stalls selling things. But, the best thing we found was a large Nativity scene in an area behind glass. It was impressive.
Back outside on the Anneliese Friese side of the Rathaus, we saw that it was pitch black- at 5:03!
Since it was nearby, it seemed reasonable to spend another 0,50 Euro at the Toilette.
We wandered to the front of the Rathaus, where there was a musical performance by children. While listening, I got this photo of the old sign with the symbol of the market, the Reiterlein (Little Rider).
After the singing, the young woman in charge spoke to the crowd about the season. Then, she invited everyone to join in praying the Vater Unser (Our Father). I hurriedly told K and J, and then, with tears in my eyes, joined in praying the one prayer I still know in German. What an incredibly beautiful moment! It was so nice to hear German this way after the recorded sounds of
Feliz Navidad,
Marshmallow World,
White Christmas and
Winter Wonderland that we'd heard today.
We decided to head back to the train station. We'd pick up dinner along the way to eat on the train.
I looked down the street to the Plönlein and the Siebersturm all lit up and Christmas lights all down the street-just magical. Even if it wasn't snowing, it felt like Christmas.
Just before the Hafengasse turned into the Rödergasse, we came to a place we'd seen on our walk in and thought they'd have something good to take on the train. It was called Brot & Zeit and even thought the building looked plenty old, they had an automatic door. Inside, there were wonderful breads and rolls. They had a cheesecake with mandarins, that reminded me of Grandmom G's favorite from the bakery again. They also had pre-made sandwiches. It was a little unclear which sandwich was which, but they all looked good, so we ordered. We got a Jeanette and a Rocky, as well as a Mezzo Mix (Coke's version of Spezi, a cola with orange flavoring) for me and a Coke Zero for K. I also ordered a gorgeous Rosinenbrötchn ( raisin bun). It came to 17,70 Euro, which I put on my MasterCard. J ordered her own food. We packed it up and headed out.
When we reached the wall at 5:43, we found some delightful sights to send us on our way. So glad I chose this town!
We were back at the train station at 5:55 and the train was waiting. We had no trouble finding seats this time. The train departed for Steinach at 6:06 and it took only 10 minutes to get there. Since we were going back a little earlier than planned, our connections changed from the morning. We boarded the train for Treuchtlingen when it arrived at 6:29. It barely paused and and it was off again. We found seats that faced each other with a small table between them. We had more time on this train, so we could eat.
I'm no longer clear on which sandwich was which. I do know they were all excellent. There's nothing like a sandwich on fresh bread. And that raisin bun? Fantastic! So tender and moist. The wrapping says Handwerk, which means craft, but it is literally "handwork", which you could tell these were.
We arrived in Treuchlingen at 7:29 and found the train to Munich, which departed at 7:35. It was pretty much an empty train and we had the car pretty much to ourselves. It was so very dark outside, that there was nothing to do but read what we'd brought with us.
When we arrived in the Münchner Hauptbahnhof at 9:35, we were delighted to see that it was decorated with Christmas decorations and lights. We hadn't noticed them in the light of day.
We hurried off to the S-bahn and boarded the S3 at 9:42. Just 3 minutes later, we reached Donnersbergerbrücke station at 9:45. It wasn't raining, which made the walk back good. We were in our rooms by 9:55.
While I unpacked the day's haul, K went downstairs for a beer. The rain started and I was glad we were back. What a marvelous day! And my phone showed 9, 428 steps and 3.5 miles of walking and an insane 6 floors. I have no idea where it got that much.
