It's my birthday! Today, I reach the birthday with a Paul McCartney song dedicated to it. I usually like to wake at 7:25 on my birthday, as that's the exact time of my birth. However, today, my husband K and I had to get up at 6:30 to be ready to go to breakfast at 7.
Our daughter J came to our room at 6:55, bearing birthday cards from herself and her sister and sister-in-law. K pulled out his card, too, and he and J gave me some small gifts, too. In fact, K gave me a lava bracelet and necklace that I'd found at a store the other day and had told him to give me sometime!
We went down to breakfast shortly after that. The spread down there was pretty much the same as yesterday. We all enjoyed our meal and then went upstairs to brush our teeth and grab our supplies for the day. There had been no maid service yesterday and I suspected no one would be in today, either. Covid has affected the way hotels handle rooms.
We were back in the lobby at 8:20 to wait. Pick-up time was to start at 8:30, but there was no way to know when they would actually show up. As it was, the bus arrived at 8:45. We gave our name to the driver and showed our excursion voucher for the Golden Circle Tour, the second of our included tours on our package.
We arrived at the bus station at 8:55. We walked through and found a smaller bus on the other side with a Golden Circle Tour sign.
It was overcast and the 52° temperature actually felt like 46. It looked like rain and I was glad that K had our umbrellas in his backpack.
Our driver/guide had a nice Icelandic name- Höskuldur Frimannsson, but told us that Americans just called him "Hershey" and, yes, he had visited Hershey Park. He passed around a laminated map to the 11 of us as we departed at 9:10. It was good to have an idea of the terrain we'd be covering. I found out from Wikipedia, that the tour is called Golden Circle, because it includes Gullfoss, which means Golden Waterfall. So, it's a marketing term and a lot of companies do some version of it. We're traveling with Reykjavik Excursions.
Hershey told us about Icelandic names, as the young cook had done the other day. He passed around another laminated paper. This one was the page from the phone book with his name on it. He wanted us to see that everyone is listed in there by first names. Everyone is addressed by their first name, even the president of the country.
The clouds were definitely hanging low this morning!
By 9:45, we'd entered a cloud on the lava field, having driven up high enough. My phone identified the area as Sveitarfélagið Ölfus. I have no idea what it means, but the computer does not seem to be able to type that odd character at the end. I had to find it online and copy it.
At 10:03, we passed by a rather wide river. Even in the gloom, it looked pretty.
Three minutes later, we passed by some large bushes, which are what passes for a forest of native "tree". Tall tree actually have to be imported.
At 10:30, we made our first stop of the day at Friðheimar, which a greenhouse, or rather, a series of them. A young woman who works there told our group all about the tomatoes they grow. A couple started the place in 1995. The farm focuses on sustainability and responsible tourism. They use geothermal power to create the electricity and heat needed. The water is the glacial water everyone drinks in Iceland. They grow about 700 tons of tomatoes annually, picking every day of the year. They have about 39% of the total market for Iceland. They grow them in pumice, which makes it easier to control moisture and fertilization. They import bees for pollination from Holland. They were just buzzing around and didn't bother anyone. I noticed their boxes were up on the wall above a person's head and they could come and go as they please. She had a box with plexiglass on it and invited us to put our phones on it to take a photo. Sure!
After the talk, J and I roamed around taking photos. It reminded us of the hydroponic process used at Epcot to grow tomatoes. We could peek through an opening and see other plants they grew, too. Even their packaging is sustainable.
This was not our lunch stop, but Hershey had encouraged us to try their tomato soup. Although I am not a fan of tomato soup, I agreed to try some of the cup (1,050 kr) that K got for the three of us. I had liked the tomato soup on Orkney, so there was hope. The bread that came with it was absolutely amazing. And the soup? It was like eating a fresh tomato, albeit a hot one. Wonderful chunks and flavors. So, the problem seems to be Campbell's Cream of Tomato Soup.
K reported that they also had things like tomato and apple pie and tomato cheesecake. That would have been cool to try, but we had no time.
On the way to the bus at 11:19, I snapped this photo of one of the greenhouses. What an unusual stop! We were really glad that it had been on the tour.
As we drove down the road, we passed a field of sheep and a house here and there that appeared to be on a farm.
At 11:36, we all piled off the bus at Geysir, a geothermal area. Does that word look right, but slightly wrong? What if I told you that it had come to us in English as "geyser"? Ah, better, right? I'm sure that like us, you did not know we got the word from Iceland. (My phone, by the way, calls this Haukadalur Geothermal Area.)
i learned from a sign, that geothermal areas in Iceland are divided into high and low temperature areas depending on the nature of the system. The high temperature ones are within the volcanic zone, the low ones are outside. Geysir is a high temperature geothermal area with a base temperature around 250°. A graphic on the sign showed that when Steamboat at Yellowstone erupts, it reaches 90-120m, while Geysir back in the day would only reach 70-80 m. Sadly, another sign noted that it is dormant and eruptions are rare.
In honor of my birthday, I did pose with Geysir, even if all it was doing was steaming, as above.
We'd had to climb up here with Hershey, who finished telling us about the place before pointing down the hill and across the road to where we should go to get lunch after we looked around . Then, he went off.
K, J and I climbed the hill a bit more to photograph other hot springs and the flowers. This was finally my chance to get a photo of the Alaska lupine. Great colors in the springs and the flowers. We could see folks at the top of the ridge, but we certainly had no time to climb that high. Plus, I doubt my knees would have tolerated it.
Meadow buttercup
That last photo is a panoramic of the view down the hill from where we were. Down there was Strokkur, a geyser that does still erupt. Hershey had given us a range for its interval and now J started timing it to give us a better idea of when to expect it. And we headed down the hill to join the crowd standing in the safe zone and waiting to photograph it.
When we got down there, everyone was standing with their cameras ready. Suddenly, a large blue bubble arose and I immediately started filming. This screen shot sort of captures that moment. It was so freaking awesome!
We then continued along the path, which pretty much ran parallel to Strokkur's runoff. We came upon the most adorable little geyser just bubbling away. It was appropriately named Litli Geysir.
I was really impressed how close flowers would grow to the incredibly hot water here.
It was 12:20, when we went in Geysir Glíma Restaurant for lunch. It was designed by Leifur Walding and was inspired by Icelandic nature and design. It also has wrestling pictures, which is what glíma means, and it is the only national sport. I really liked the lights and the tables.
The restaurant was set up like a cafeteria. J and I decided to split our meals. We got a lamb sandwich and a chicken sandwich (each was 1690 kr), while K got himself a ham and cheese panini like last night. They only had Pepsi products, which I found very frustrating. So, I sucked it up and got a Pepsi Max (350 kr). J got a Pepsi, while K got a coffee. I was very happy that they had chocolate cake, so that I could have cake for my birthday. To be sure there was enough to go round, I also got a big chocolate cookie. Together with K's coffee, those last two came to 1950 kr., which was a crazy $15.75. This is why it is best not to convert to US dollars. At least, it was a good meal.
After eating, we had some time for the shop and the restroom. When we came outside, the bus was not parked at the side, as Hershey had said it would be, but rather out front. As we approached, he opened the door and came out. He heard me saying that I could have sworn that he'd said it would be around the side and he was pleased that I had remembered. A detail like that is important.
We were all supposed to be on the bus at 1:10 and we all beat it by one minute. It was not far to our next stop, only 16 minutes, in fact. This stop was to visit Gullfoss, the "golden waterfall". Hershey led us from the parking lot, down some stairs to the overlook. He then showed us the stairs going down to the next level. He'd be waiting down there with the bus.
From the parking lot up top, you just sort of see an opening in the earth.
But, when you go down those stairs to the overlook, the scene is vastly different.
There was a path below to get closer to the waterfall, but we could see that it involved going downhill- after climbing down the stairs- and we knew I couldn't do it. So, we sent K down and J decided to join me, when I said that I was going back to the store in the parking lot to use the restroom and see if they had a postcard and/or pin. She decided to go with me. Not only did I find a postcard, but I also found some special salt that I'd been looking for as a gift.
When we went back down the broad steps that went to the viewing platform, we had this rather intimidating view of the steps to go down to the next parking lot.
We took our time going down and even took photos along the way. I was struck by this building all by itself on the other side of the ravine. What is it??
Looking down, I saw pockets of water in the grass, but also odd lines. Later, when we reached Hershey, I asked about them and he said they were trails from hikers.
The waterfall is really quite impressive, even in such grey weather. I bet it looks amazing in sunlight.
At this level, I was interested in the carving the river had done farther downstream. You could tell that it cut pretty deeply into the terrain. At times, it hit softer rock and the river dropped even lower. The basalt rock was seriously dry past where the waterfall was currently cutting. So, it had been quite some time since the water was there.
J and I could easily spot K coming back from the black walk to take closer photos. It wasn't his Orioles cap or his jacket, but rather the white knit gloves he had bought the other day.
When he got to us, his glasses were splattered from the spray and he thought he'd gotten some good photos. Hershey saw us all together and kindly offered to take a photo of the three of us. It turned out quite well.
We were all supposed to be on the bus at 2:10, but a couple of people delayed our departure. But, it was really only a couple of minutes and then we were on the road again.
Our ride was a little longer this time. We had the chance to see a "marshmallow farm", as Hershey put it. Actually, it is a rather common European way of baling hay. We even saw some trees!
As he drove, Hershey continued to tell us about his country, as he had done all day. We'd learned that on the 40,000 + square miles that is Iceland, there are 360,000 people. 130,000 of them live in Reykjavik proper. If you take in the metropolitan area, the number rises to 220,000. The Alaska lupine were brought in to turn the rock into soil. However, they've become controversial, because they crowd out native species. When you see grey moss, it is just waiting for rain, which will turn it green. Never step on the moss, because it will lose its attachment to the rock beneath it. The center of the country is just one big desert, with nothing growing there. There are 19 outdoor swimming pools in the country and 2 or 3 indoor ones in Reykjavik, which are open year round. There was a lot more, but I didn't write down more than this.
At 2:56, we crossed the fault line separating the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. At 3:20, Hershey parked in the rift that marks the crest of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge and we got out. We were in Thingvellir ( or, more properly, þingvellir )National Park. We'd passed people in wet suits climbing into a narrow channel. They were going to swim in the frigid water of the rift. It was misting a bit now.
We walked along the river Öxará, which looked lovely even in the gloom of the day. It had a raw charm and there were flowers (marsh marigold). We even saw some geese swimming in it. We discovered a goose family high on the bank near a charming little church, in whose yard lie two poets. Other famous Icelanders were to be buried here, but they chose not to be.
Looking across the river, we could see the wall of rock showing the uplift of the North American plate, as the two plates have rubbed against each other. It is a seriously impressive wall.
We passed various pools formed by springs and other times there were rifts full of clearest water that were created by the often measurable earthquakes in the area. Some of the rifts looked almost endless. There were mounds of volcanic rock covered by green, which says something about life finding a way. Farther down the wall on the other side, I could see a waterfall.
It took some work, but I found out that that last picture is Alpine bartsia.
Eventually, Hershey led us across a bridge to the other side of the river. Here was the historic part of the park. This is where the Icelandic people in 930 met and formed the first Parliament, known as the Alþingi, rendered in English letters as Althingi or Althing. It is the oldest parliament in the world. By tradition, this occurred at Law Rock, where the Icelandic flag flies. However, it is just tradition; the actual details faded over time. In fact, archaeological digs have yielded evidence that it may actually have happened closer to the rock wall.
Hershey now left us on our own to explore the area, read signs, etc., while he went back to the bus and moved it to the lot closer to the wall. It was raining a bit, but at least it had waited and not messed up the rest of the day.
We roamed around, reading signs, taking photos. That wall is pretty amazing.
In 2011, a hole was found in the trail leading up to the next parking lot. It turned out to be quite the fissure. They built a bridge, but you could see all the tumbled rocks. This was a bit steep for me. So, J and K each crooked an arm for me to grab onto. It was most helpful.
We were back on the bus and headed for Reykjavik at 4:15. When we got on, Hershey asked each person or group for their hotel for him to plan his stops. When he got to us, I asked if he were stopping anywhere downtown near the Catholic church, could he drop us off there. "I can drop you off right in front of the church!" That would be a huge help.
I noticed as we motored along, that there were few if any "developments". It looked kind of lonely.
Hershey told us about the Edda, the great Icelandic Viking saga. I'd heard of it, but hadn't realized was Icelandic.
True to his word, Hershey dropped us off in front of the Cathedral of Christ the King at 5:20. K gave him a well-earned 1500 kr tip. We were shocked to find the church locked. Mass was to be at 6 and it was supposed to have holy hour right now. K couldn't get the door to open and J and I could find no other entrance.
I suggested that we not stand around in the rain, but head down to the Hard Rock Café for my pin now, rather than wait until after church. Another couple was coming up to the church as we were leaving and we told them it was locked.
After a rainy walk, we reached Hard Rock at 5:45. They didn't have a city pin, but they had a Reykjavik dragon guitar pin. It was the most expensive Hard Rock pin I've ever bought - 2490 kr. or $20.32. After buying it, I asked if we might use the restroom. Luckily, there was an elevator.
We hoofed it back up the hill and were just a little late for 6 pm Mass, which I was grateful was occurring. I like to start a new year of life by going to church. We sat in the last pew. I pulled up the My Parish App to get the readings for the day and some of the prayers. There were three priests and Mass was in Icelandic, but Mass is Mass everywhere. I did sort of recognize some words in the readings and was reminded that Icelandic is a Germanic language. There were maybe 20 in attendance and, even though the website said that masks were to be worn, no one, including the priests, wore one.
The only problem was at Communion. People seemed to just go up at will and I noticed that they were kneeling on the upper step at the communion rail. Number 1, kneeling is a problem for me. Number 2, I haven't received Communion like that in forever. I managed to sort of lean. There seemed to be a hair of confusion when I put my hands out in the throne method we use, but I got Communion.
After Mass was over at 6:30, we stayed a bit taking photos. A small cathedral, but lovely.
When we came out of church at about 6:50, it was no longer raining and we stopped so that I could take the photo below. The couple we'd seen earlier came by and said they were glad we'd made it. They'd checked the door and found it took some pushing, but we were gone by then. J and I got to talking to the woman and K to the guy. They were from California and were heading to the south shore tomorrow. Turned out they were "fellow travelers" as they say and easy to talk to. At 7:07, we finally said good-bye and went on.
Amazingly enough, when we got down the hill, we found ourselves passing the current Iceland Parliament.
Near the corner of Lækjargata and Bankastræti was a sculpture of a woman carrying buckets. It turns out that it is called Vantsberinn or Water Carrier. I found it quite impressive. She really does look like she is carrying a heavy load.
We turned up Bankastræti. Soon, we were passing Skólavördustígur, which leads to the Hallgrimskirkja. What we didn't notice the other day was that the street has been turned into Rainbow Street. Looks pretty cool.
Bankstræti eventually turned into good, old Laugavegur. Now, we were in familiar territory. We stopped in a souvenir shop and J and I both bought gloves. I had looked at the driving gloves in the drawer at home and thought, no, I'm not going to need these. Now, I own gloves from Iceland. They do look nice. A Nordic pattern is a good souvenir.
It rained off and on as we went along. K wanted us to eat someplace nice for my birthday. I would have been fine back in the food hall. Finally, at 7:58, he suggested Rossopomodoro, which was Italian and had pizzas. When we went in, we had to wait a few minutes for them to get a table ready for us. It was toward the back, around a curved wall. The room was pleasant.
K ordered a glass of Nero D'Avola, 250 ml, for 1950 kr. I was so happy that they actually had Coke Zero! It was 550 kr, as was J's regular Coke. We each ordered a different pizza, with the idea of having three to try. I ordered the Rustica for 2890 kr and it had ham and mushrooms. J got a Sorrentina,which had pepperoni and cost 2790. K's Formaggi with its 4 cheeses cost 3200kr. The pizzas were absolutely delicious. I put the bill on my Capital One Mastercard. So, I'll at least get some money back on it.
We left at 8:50 and were in the lobby of the hotel just 15 minutes later. J and I went to the desk to confirm tomorrow's outing. The guy at the desk could not confirm our excursion for tomorrow. It was not showing up on his computer like the previous 2 did. He said that we could call Reykjavik Excursions and I asked him to do it. They were closed. We'll try again in the morning. This is worrisome.
But, in spite of that and the rain, it was a good birthday.
My phone said it was now 48, feels like 42. My phone said that we walked 15,661 steps for a total of 6.3 miles. We also climbed 9 floors somehow.
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